Ven Bagdro

The ride to Dharamsala was a smooth breeze. Stopped sporadically to have warm chai or some bananas, and looked out over the mountains or the river. The bike is a bit snakey in the back, and I performed a scary - though aesthetic - slide around a corner.

Sipping chai (it was chilly and drizzly the whole ride) by the side of the road, and looking at the bike, I think it might be that one of the shocks in the back might be in a shocking condition (sorry). I'll let an expert inspect it and loosen and tighten a few things.

Arrived in Dharamsala the day before yesterday. Another cute little hilltop station. More Tibetans live here than Indians (good to see different types of faces again). With fantastic views over the valley. On lazy afternoons you can sit on the rooftop terrace of Nick's Italian Kitchen, and watch the clouds slowly glide into the valley.

We met Ven. Bagdro there - a Tibetan monk. He's an activist, fighting the Chinese occupation of Tibet. He's collecting signatures for a petition to present to the UN to allow the Dalai Lama to address all nations. He has already collected two (or three) hundred thousand, and only needs one hundred thousand more (said with a cheerful positive Charlie Brown face). He's done Tibetan chanting at German HipHop concerts, written a book, released a CD, visited several different countries giving speeches - has sponsorships from celebrities, two documentaries have been made about his story as a political prisoner etc.

He laughs a lot, and we had coffee and chatted with him for a long time. When he sees beautiful women (or when gorgeous women plant kisses on his cheeks), he needs to put cold water onto his forehead to remain a monk. We came up with many variations on that theme ("Oh hello, pleased to meet you, can you please pass me your glass of cold water.") He also has a big poster of Desmund Tutu hanging next to the Dalai Lama in his room.

This is a place where you can easily spend weeks on the decks and chat and eat and play games and philosophize and meet people from all over the world - backpackers, fly-in tourists, and long-term visitors.

On all the walls, you can see posters for courses to attend like Hindi, Tibetan, English, Buddhism, Indian Cooking, Tibetan Cooking, Yoga, Reiki, Crystal Healing, Tabla, Sitar, Djembe drums (African!), Thai Massage, Tibetan Massage and Swedish Massage! You can volunteer your services in English Conversation, helping out with new Tibetan refugees arriving, donating clothes, computer services, and conservation services.

Or you can go trekking. A little something for everyone.

We are doing an Indian cooking course - three dishes per day for three days (I kept on telling him that it tastes too good).

My sandals are stinking by now. I need to wash them twice a day to see if I can sort them out. I haven't shaved in ten days - I'll see if I can hold out for another two months.

Last night we watched a pirated version of Fahrenheit 9/11. Good film. Confirmed my suspicion that there is something seriously wrong in the world, and that Bush is a buffoon. They had the biggest TV I have ever seen, with several couches in rows at the back of a restaurant. You can eat your full-on Indian meal inside. No popcorn.