A Lot Of Testosterone

I can't believe this. We had to turn back again. The third time we had to turn around. I also cannot believe my mental endurance. Although, I do have visions of hurling the motorbike at the mechanic, or off the cliff. Still no power on uphills. We had to turn around again! Every evening we arrive back at the guesthouse for an extremely delicious meal. And they cannot believe that we're back. We must be clowns. Have I mentioned that we have extremely delicious meals every evening? That's the one consolation. Secretly I am always happy to have one more of those extremely delicious meals.

Today I spent nine hours at the mechanic. We took everything apart that could possibly affect the performance. We changed piston rings, condensors, spark plugs, checked the timings, clutch etc.

Nine hours at the mechanic. What that means is, that you are totally surrounded by oil, grease, exhaust fumes, hooters, screaming engines, cigarettes, clanging tools, petrol, and a lot of testosterone. It was hard.

The mechanic, Juma, took the bike for a test drive. I was on the back. He went downhill as fast as the bike goes. I was very scared. I was looking at the back of his head, and his haunched shoulders, and a burning cigarette between his fingers, and he was going for it. I couldn't make out what he was thinking. But I tapped him on his shoulders and asked him to slow down please. Tears were streaming out my eyes, and I was having visions of sliding on the tar in my shorts and t-shirt.

Sarita shopped for waterproof trousers for us. I think we are naively underprepared. I am still wearing sandals and shorts. But I have socks now.

I called Arun in Delhi - whom I rented the bike from - and explained the situation and the loss of days, and we have agreed that we can leave the bike in Manali. We really want to still complete this journey. Manali would make it a full circle. Actually a balloon with a string on it, as we started from Delhi.

Because after the trip, we're off to Rishikesh - were the Beatles met their guru - to attend a ten day Vipassana meditation course.

Tomorrow we leave for Manali for the fourth time. We also need to deliver a letter to a school in Mori on behalf of the guesthouse owner. We have responsibilities. People are depending on us. It has to work. I have no idea what I will do if we have to turn around for a fourth time. Should be interesting.