Bhuj

In Bhuj. Ok, let me see how I got here. Took the train from Bombay, which departed exactly on time (10:52pm). A transvestite demanded ten rupees. I asked her for what. She came close and whispered something into my ear, stood back and demanded ten rupees. It felt almost erotic. Around me people laughed, so I gave her ten rupees. Guys in my section had elaborate meals. I slept on the top bunk with my backpack as a pillow.

Arrived in Ahmedabad after dawn. One of the most polluted cities in the world. You can feel yourself choking on the fumes. Absolutely anything goes in traffic. Going up a oneway with a wall of motorbikes coming toward you - no problem. U-turns on busy roads without looking - no worries.

Got chatting to this energetic fellow by the side of the road. He took me for a joyride through town on his bike. Swerving, crazy moves, millimeters from other bikes. One hand pointing at things, turning round chatting to me about hash and opium and women and cricket and t-shirts and "City Road" - he loves "City Road". I smiled at a girl a few bikes further on - that smile that she returned, oozed through the traffic - both of us felt it and laughed and then he cut and hooted across several 'lanes' to turn right and head into town center.

Went to Ghandis' Ashram, and sat on the veranda for a few hours to listen to the wind blowing through the trees, the birds, and the distant hooting. Chatted to a guy about Hinduism. Interesting fellow.

I'm getting used to sitting in an empty restaurant with eight waiters constantly wanting to fill up my plate again, and staring at me - right next to my table.

I had a train to catch to Bhuj at 11:59pm. I asked the hotel to wake me at 11pm. At 11pm the phone rings. Moments later, the doorbell rings, insistent knocking, calling, and somebody trying to open the door.

In Bhuj now. Bhuj is in the Kutch region, and was heavily damaged during the 2001 earthquake. Much rubble. Took my first photos in the Prag Mahal - and old palace which remained largely intact. Inside is a huge dusty reception/dinner hall, with chandeliers and dilapidated lion hunting trophies.

Waited outside this Internet cafe for two hours for electricity. Watched people, motorbikes (wife sideseated on the back), students (spectacles and carrying books), pigs eating rubbish, cows enjoying their status, Harleys converted into colourful trucks, stalls selling plastic toys, a dapper soldier waiting outside his Jeep-type car for a woman he had given a lift to (she was sitting in the back) - he didn't interact with anybody; he was too official.

Renting a scooter tomorrow to go South to villages along the Gulf of Kutch. A leisurely day journey. I must remember to be liberal with my hooting - even though most of the trip is going to be along the quiet backwaters of Kutch.

What's so cool about Jonty Rhodes anyway?